Time travel
Sitting in the lavish armchair of the British Pullman train, it is impossible not to sit up straight. The elegant surroundings demand good decorum. The Orient- Express has long been the epitome of elegant train travel – forget the delayed services and cramped carriages of modern rail, a journey on the Pullman makes it feel as if you’re going back in time. In fact, on my day trip to Paris, I half-expected to see the cast of Downton sashaying through the 1920s carriage.
After arriving at the delightfully discreet check-in lounge at London’s Victoria station, we heard the train before we saw it. The majestic British Pullman is an amalgamation of 12 historic carriages, each with its own story. I was guided to ‘Cyprus’, which served as part of Winston Churchill’s funeral train in 1965. It is wonderfully ornate, and wonderfully British.
Brunch is served by the immaculately dressed waiters. Our waiter, Arthur, had clearly mastered the art of pouring the perfect cup of tea while in motion. He (and his teapot) swayed in perfect time with the train’s bumpy meanderings.
Sitting at the linen-covered table, eating divine scrambled eggs and watching the pretty Kent countryside whip by the window, years of history melted away. It was only when we stopped at a station and watched those on the platform gawp (and pull out a very modern camera), that we realised we were still in the year 2014.
We left the Pullman to cross the channel in a shuttle, and arrived at Calais Ville. All of the dashing staff lined up outside our new train, the Venice Simplon Orient-Express, to welcome us, and we were guided to our individual cabins. The interior of the wagons-lits is as classic as you’d hope: wooden panelling, plush seats and a white enamel basin (topped o with a complimentary toothbrush). Sadly we’d be arriving in Paris before bedtime, so rather than sleep I relaxed, wrote some postcards and dressed for dinner.
Oh yes, dress for dinner. The dress code of the train is charmingly strict. All women are trussed up in evening gowns and the men in black tie, lending a sophisticated tone to the proceedings.
The supper, which is served in the beautifully appointed dining carriage, is a feat of space management. The chef, Christian Bodiguel, has worked on the train for almost 30 years, and produces food of gourmet standard from his tiny carriage kitchen. We were treated to a four-course meal featuring fragrant crab, tender steak, cheese and a creative apricot and pistachio pudding.
A post-dinner cocktail is a must on the Venice-Simplon. The bar carriage exempli es everything that is magical about this train. As dusk settled and Paris came into view, the pianist tinkled away on the baby grand piano and we sipped Murder On The Orient Express. This tantalisingly named cocktail is a combination of 12 secret ingredients (if you can guess them all, rumour has it the barman will make you another for free). The only thing more sparkly than the city’s lights outside was the women in their resplendent attire, while the rhythmic whirring of the old engines was only just detectable above the music and happy hum of conversation.
As I retired to my cabin to soak up the atmosphere for the nal few minutes, I chatted to our steward, Steve, who has also worked on the train for years. He revealed that he was excited to meet his passengers embarking at Paris (he receives all details beforehand, of course, so as to anticipate everyone’s needs), as among the group was an elderly couple. At 90 and 92 years old, they had booked two cabins – one for them, and one for their nurse. They had both admired the train in their childhood and were now achieving a lifelong ambition of travelling on it.
Stepping down from the carriage, helped by Steve’s white-gloved hand, it’s easy to feel the pull of the train. Romance and adventure infuse to create the spirit of a bygone era. In fact, I’d begun to feel like Lady Mary herself.
A one-day trip from London to Paris with Venice Simplon Orient-Express costs from £690 per person: 0845-217 0799, www.orient-express.com
After arriving at the delightfully discreet check-in lounge at London’s Victoria station, we heard the train before we saw it. The majestic British Pullman is an amalgamation of 12 historic carriages, each with its own story. I was guided to ‘Cyprus’, which served as part of Winston Churchill’s funeral train in 1965. It is wonderfully ornate, and wonderfully British.
Brunch is served by the immaculately dressed waiters. Our waiter, Arthur, had clearly mastered the art of pouring the perfect cup of tea while in motion. He (and his teapot) swayed in perfect time with the train’s bumpy meanderings.
Sitting at the linen-covered table, eating divine scrambled eggs and watching the pretty Kent countryside whip by the window, years of history melted away. It was only when we stopped at a station and watched those on the platform gawp (and pull out a very modern camera), that we realised we were still in the year 2014.
We left the Pullman to cross the channel in a shuttle, and arrived at Calais Ville. All of the dashing staff lined up outside our new train, the Venice Simplon Orient-Express, to welcome us, and we were guided to our individual cabins. The interior of the wagons-lits is as classic as you’d hope: wooden panelling, plush seats and a white enamel basin (topped o with a complimentary toothbrush). Sadly we’d be arriving in Paris before bedtime, so rather than sleep I relaxed, wrote some postcards and dressed for dinner.
Oh yes, dress for dinner. The dress code of the train is charmingly strict. All women are trussed up in evening gowns and the men in black tie, lending a sophisticated tone to the proceedings.
The supper, which is served in the beautifully appointed dining carriage, is a feat of space management. The chef, Christian Bodiguel, has worked on the train for almost 30 years, and produces food of gourmet standard from his tiny carriage kitchen. We were treated to a four-course meal featuring fragrant crab, tender steak, cheese and a creative apricot and pistachio pudding.
A post-dinner cocktail is a must on the Venice-Simplon. The bar carriage exempli es everything that is magical about this train. As dusk settled and Paris came into view, the pianist tinkled away on the baby grand piano and we sipped Murder On The Orient Express. This tantalisingly named cocktail is a combination of 12 secret ingredients (if you can guess them all, rumour has it the barman will make you another for free). The only thing more sparkly than the city’s lights outside was the women in their resplendent attire, while the rhythmic whirring of the old engines was only just detectable above the music and happy hum of conversation.
As I retired to my cabin to soak up the atmosphere for the nal few minutes, I chatted to our steward, Steve, who has also worked on the train for years. He revealed that he was excited to meet his passengers embarking at Paris (he receives all details beforehand, of course, so as to anticipate everyone’s needs), as among the group was an elderly couple. At 90 and 92 years old, they had booked two cabins – one for them, and one for their nurse. They had both admired the train in their childhood and were now achieving a lifelong ambition of travelling on it.
Stepping down from the carriage, helped by Steve’s white-gloved hand, it’s easy to feel the pull of the train. Romance and adventure infuse to create the spirit of a bygone era. In fact, I’d begun to feel like Lady Mary herself.
A one-day trip from London to Paris with Venice Simplon Orient-Express costs from £690 per person: 0845-217 0799, www.orient-express.com