SPICE & ALL THINGS NICE

Spices are the foundation of, and inspiration for, much of my cooking. I rely on them to add layers of fl avour to my food, though this hasn’t always been the case. There was a time when I was bewildered by the sheer number and complexity of spices. When you think of spice what comes to mind? Hot food? Curry? Confusion? All too often ‘spice’ or ‘spicy’ is used as a generic term, usually describing a dish that is particularly hot or contains chillies. In fact, spices are wondrous, almost magical ingredients that, when balanced carefully, can help you to create a whole spectrum of extraordinary dishes, from the simple and delicate to the tantalisingly complex.

I am inspired by the stunning aromas and flavours of spices and the opportunities they provide to add complexity to food. I want to share this love of spices with you and change the way you use them.

Writing this now I can hear torrential rain on the windows and the grey street outside. But if I imagine the smell of certain spices I am transported to somewhere more exotic. This is the power of spice: harness that power and discover how they can lift your cooking to new heights.

CHICKEN LAKSA
Serves 4

For the laksa paste

• 2 shallots, roughly chopped
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 red chillies 
• 5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
• 3 tsp chopped fresh coriander (leaves and stalks)
• zest and juice of 1 lime 
• 1 lemongrass stalk, outer layer removed and roughly chopped 
• 2 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp ground turmeric

Remaining ingredients

• 50ml vegetable oil
• 1 litre chicken stock
• 2 chicken breasts, skinned 
• 200g raw prawns, peeled
• 400ml coconut milk 
• 100g beansprouts
• 100g cooked rice noodles 
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered 
• 1 red chilli, very finely sliced 
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander 
• 2 limes, cut into wedges
• salt

To make the laksa paste blend all the ingredients in a food processor until you have a smooth paste. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the paste for 5-7 mins until the oil has separated from the paste.

Spoon the laksa paste into a large pan and place over a medium heat. As soon as the paste starts sizzling, add the stock and bring to the boil.

Once the stock comes to a simmer, add the chicken and cook for 15 mins, then add the prawns and cook for a further 3 mins.

Stir through the coconut milk and return to the boil. Add the beansprouts and cooked noodles.

Remove the chicken breasts from the pan and slice thickly. Return to the pan with the egg quarters and stir gently to heat through. Season to taste and serve topped with the chilli, mint , coriander and lime.

HARISSA SARDINES


Serves 6

• 12 fresh sardines, cleaned and gutted (ask your fishmonger)
• 2 tbsp harissa paste 
• 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for serving
• small bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
• juice of 2 lemons
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

Slash the sardines three or four times on both sides, season with salt and pepper and then rub thoroughly with the harissa paste.

Drizzle with the olive oil and cook on a hot barbecue for 3-4 mins each side or under the grill for the same amount of time (you may need a little less or longer depending on the size of the sardines).

Serve with the chopped parsley, a drizzle of olive oil and squeeze of lemon juice.

BARBECUED PIGEON WITH SPICED PEA PURÉE


Serves 4

• 4 pigeon crowns (on the bone)
• 1 lime, quartered
• salt

For the marinade

• 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste
• juice of 1 lemon 
• juice of 1 lime 
• 2 tsp vegetable oil u ½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper
• ½ tsp salt

For the pea purée

• 1 tbsp vegetable oil 
• 1 onion, finely chopped 
• 3 sprigs fresh curry leaves 
• 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 
• 1 green finger chilli, seeded and chopped 
• 250g frozen peas 
• 100ml coconut milk or chicken stock 
• 4 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint

Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the pigeon crowns and turn to coat in the marinade. Place in the fridge for at least 1 hour or overnight.

To make the pea purée, heat the oil in a frying pan and add the onion. Fry for about 10 mins until soft and starting to colour. Add the curry leaves, mustard seeds and chilli and fry for another 5 mins. Add the peas and the coconut milk or stock and bring to the boil.

Remove from the heat and tip the pea mixture into a blender with the coriander and mint and blend until smooth. Set aside until ready to serve. If you are making this in advance then reheat gently before serving with the pigeon.

To cook the pigeon on a barbecue, place over hot coals and cook for 3 mins each side. Allow to rest for 5-10 mins. Alternatively, panfry for 3-5 minutes each side and rest as before.

To serve, take the breast fillets off the joint and then cut each breast into four or five slices (the meat should be pink in the middle) and arrange on top of the pea purée. Finish with a squeeze of lime and a pinch of salt. Harissa sardines

For the garlic and ginger paste
Take a 50:50 blend of peeled garlic cloves and peeled fresh ginger. Whizz in a food processor with a tablespoon or two of water. This can be frozen.

Spice: Layers Of Flavour by Dhruv Baker, with photography by Kate Whitaker, is published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson, priced £25, or eBook, £12.99.