Review: Bel & The Dragon

At just an hour outside London, Bel & The Dragon makes an ideal last-minute getaway for some fresh air and a big dose of Surrey greenery. It's just the right backdrop for a lazy weekend relaxing with the papers and drinking proper coffee.

From the bedrooms to the dining room, the nineteenth century inn has been given a flagstones-to-rafters Farrow and Ball makeover, which is lovely, but also does create the slightly disconcerting sensation that you may be inhabiting a catalogue. The staff are regularly asked the names of the paint colours, so don't be embarrassed to ask yourself if you're curious. In the spirit of the whole catalogue feel, there will be many items that you fancy for your own home - from the freestanding bath and pristine White Company towels, to all the carefully chosen secondhand books that fit the colour scheme.

A little sloe gin goes a long way, and the welcome bottle of Sipsmith in each bedroom gets the stay off to a flying start while you get changed for dinner. Moving downstairs to the bar, the drinks are on the money too. The Elderbubble, made with Sipsmith vodka, Laurent Perrier, Elderflower and lemon, and the Margarita are just what you want to sharpen your appetite. Sitting in the sprawling garden among the high trees, cocktail in hand, is extremely relaxing.

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Over the summer, typical supper dishes include devilled crab, marinated beetroot and burrata, yellowfin tuna with wasabi, and roasted suckling pig. Meat takes top billing with lots of tempting options from the josper grill. The pick of the puddings is the Sipsmith vodka and lemon sorbet, with the Valrhona chocolate mousse a close second. The only disappointment was the Espresso Martini, which you should probably give a miss unless you like very sweet cocktails.

Following a wonderful dinner, breakfast was a little flat with only a few variations on bacon and egg and some cereals and bread on offer, but perhaps it is just as well to give the stomach a temporary reprieve. Across the road is an extensive sculpture park and the Devil's Punch Bowl, one of Surrey's natural highlights, so there is plenty of scope for walking off the heavy lunches and dinners. You can go home feeling only slightly guilty.

Rates start from £95 per night including breakfast. For more information visit www.belandthedragon-churt.co.uk or call 01428 605 799

Olivia's new book, Gin Glorious Gin, is available to pre-order at Waterstones