Season's eatings
We were brought up on a vineyard farm in an idyllic place in West Sussex called Nutbourne. Our childhoods were entwined with the seasons, from the bursting of the buds in the spring to the ripening of fruits in the summer, harvesting in the autumn and winemaking and bottling in the winter. Our lives were all about driving tractors, digging in the veg patch, animal husbandry, Mum baking delicious things for tea and friends coming and going.
To find the roots of The Shed, the restaurant we run in London’s Notting Hill, you need look no further than our home in Nutbourne. With hindsight, our career choices look like some sinister genetic plan by our parents. Gregory, the youngest, chose farming; Oliver, the ‘middlest’, became a chef, and Richard, the eldest, went into the hospitality business. These professions make a perfect food cycle, so we decided to go into business together.
Gregory is a countryman through and through. He’s devoted to his Sussex lambs, free-range pigs, organic beef herd and getting the very best from the land. Oliver, the chef, is dedicated to seasonal, sustainable cooking and using every part of an animal to make something delicious. Richard is the ideas man, dreaming up a new scheme every few minutes. His passions include winemaking, foraging, growing vegetables, and above all, running the most hospitable and environmentally sustainable restaurant in town.
Our combined vision for The Shed was for Richard to generate a relaxed, vibrant and fun atmosphere, for Oliver to have free reign in the kitchen and cook in front of the guests, and for Gregory to provide delicious produce and wine from the family farm. Then, by serving small sharing plates, we would move away from traditional restaurant dining towards a more communal experience. Our restaurant is the embodiment of a philosophy of eating based on local sourcing, seasonality, sustainability and a distinct absence of pomposity.
With our new recipes, we aim to bring the spirit of The Shed into your home.
The Shed: The Cookbook, by Gregory, Oliver and Richard Gladwin, with photography by Simon Wheeler; Kyle Books, £19.99.
Plaice straws
Serves 6
Ingredients
Method
Cut the plaice fillets lengthways into about 12 long, wide strips. Set aside on kitchen paper to absorb any excess moisture.
To make the batter, put the self-raising flour and rice flour in a large mixing bowl. (The addition of rice flour helps the batter stay crisp after cooking.) Add the lemon zest and, using a balloon whisk, mix the dry ingredients together. Slowly add the beer, whisking constantly until the batter is smooth and the consistency of thick cream. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour about 1cm depth of oil into a large, heavy-based frying pan and heat over a moderate heat. Either use a thermometer to measure the oil up to 175C or place a small piece of bread in. If the oil is ready the bread will brown after 1 minute.
Dip the strips of plaice into the batter a few at a time, making sure they are evenly coated. Lay them out straight in the hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes on each side until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper while you fry the rest.
Serve with dill mayonnaise or a similar dipping sauce such as sweet chilli, chimmi chirri, or caper tartare.
For the dill mayonnaise:
Makes 400ml
Using an electric hand whisk (or balloon whisk if you feel energetic), beat the egg yolks, mustards and vinegar together in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Whisking continuously, start to slowly add the oil, a few drops at first, then 1 tbsp at a time. It will take about 5 minutes of whisking before all the oil is incorporated and the base mayonnaise is complete. Now stir in the dill.
Cover the bowl with cling film and transfer the mayonnaise to the fridge for an hour or so to infuse. It will keep well in the fridge.
Wood Pigeon Saltimbocca
Serves 2 as a starter, or 6 as a sharing plate
Ingredients
Method
Place the pigeon breasts on a chopping board and lay a sage leaf and a slice of lemon on top of each one. Wrap a slice of ham around each one to form a parcel and season all over with salt and pepper.
Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a moderate heat, melt the butter and fry the pigeon breasts for 2-3 minutes on each side. Meanwhile, scatter some colourful salad leaves over a large platter ready for serving. Transfer the breasts to a carving board, slice each one into three and arrange on the bed of salad leaves.
Return the pan to a high heat and add the red wine and vinegar. Let it sizzle and deglaze (that’s a cheffy term that means to capture the flavours and juices), then pour over the pigeon and serve.
Warm salad of Roasted Pumpkin and Cobnuts with Pearled Spelt and leeks
Serves 6 as a sharing dish
Ingredients
Method
Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Cut the pumpkin flesh into bite-sized cubes and place in a roasting tin with the seeds, cobnuts, oil, honey and thyme. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss everything together so that the pumpkin is evenly coated in the oil and herbs and roast in the oven until tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the pearled spelt in a medium saucepan, add enough cold water to cover and season with a pinch of salt. Simmer over a moderate heat for about 20 minutes until the grain is tender but still has a bit of texture; drain and rinse under the cold tap until cool.
Put a separate pan of water over a moderate heat, add the leeks and simmer for 6 minutes until tender; drain well and keep warm.
To assemble the salad, spoon spelt onto a serving dish. Scatter over the warm leeks and pile the hot roasted pumpkin and nuts on top.
To find the roots of The Shed, the restaurant we run in London’s Notting Hill, you need look no further than our home in Nutbourne. With hindsight, our career choices look like some sinister genetic plan by our parents. Gregory, the youngest, chose farming; Oliver, the ‘middlest’, became a chef, and Richard, the eldest, went into the hospitality business. These professions make a perfect food cycle, so we decided to go into business together.
Gregory is a countryman through and through. He’s devoted to his Sussex lambs, free-range pigs, organic beef herd and getting the very best from the land. Oliver, the chef, is dedicated to seasonal, sustainable cooking and using every part of an animal to make something delicious. Richard is the ideas man, dreaming up a new scheme every few minutes. His passions include winemaking, foraging, growing vegetables, and above all, running the most hospitable and environmentally sustainable restaurant in town.
Our combined vision for The Shed was for Richard to generate a relaxed, vibrant and fun atmosphere, for Oliver to have free reign in the kitchen and cook in front of the guests, and for Gregory to provide delicious produce and wine from the family farm. Then, by serving small sharing plates, we would move away from traditional restaurant dining towards a more communal experience. Our restaurant is the embodiment of a philosophy of eating based on local sourcing, seasonality, sustainability and a distinct absence of pomposity.
With our new recipes, we aim to bring the spirit of The Shed into your home.
The Shed: The Cookbook, by Gregory, Oliver and Richard Gladwin, with photography by Simon Wheeler; Kyle Books, £19.99.
Plaice straws
Serves 6 Ingredients
- 6 skinless plaice fillets
- 200ml rapeseed oil, for deep-frying
- mayonnaise, to serve
- 200g self-raising flour
- 200g rice flour
- zest of 2 lemons
- 350ml lager
- 1 tsp rock salt
- freshly ground black pepper
Method
Cut the plaice fillets lengthways into about 12 long, wide strips. Set aside on kitchen paper to absorb any excess moisture.
To make the batter, put the self-raising flour and rice flour in a large mixing bowl. (The addition of rice flour helps the batter stay crisp after cooking.) Add the lemon zest and, using a balloon whisk, mix the dry ingredients together. Slowly add the beer, whisking constantly until the batter is smooth and the consistency of thick cream. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour about 1cm depth of oil into a large, heavy-based frying pan and heat over a moderate heat. Either use a thermometer to measure the oil up to 175C or place a small piece of bread in. If the oil is ready the bread will brown after 1 minute.
Dip the strips of plaice into the batter a few at a time, making sure they are evenly coated. Lay them out straight in the hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes on each side until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper while you fry the rest.
Serve with dill mayonnaise or a similar dipping sauce such as sweet chilli, chimmi chirri, or caper tartare.
For the dill mayonnaise:
Makes 400ml
- 2 large egg yolks
- 2 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 tbsp cider vinegar
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 300ml sunflower oil
- 1 heaped tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
Using an electric hand whisk (or balloon whisk if you feel energetic), beat the egg yolks, mustards and vinegar together in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Whisking continuously, start to slowly add the oil, a few drops at first, then 1 tbsp at a time. It will take about 5 minutes of whisking before all the oil is incorporated and the base mayonnaise is complete. Now stir in the dill.
Cover the bowl with cling film and transfer the mayonnaise to the fridge for an hour or so to infuse. It will keep well in the fridge.
Wood Pigeon Saltimbocca
Serves 2 as a starter, or 6 as a sharing plate Ingredients
- 2 wood pigeon breasts
- 2 sage leaves
- 2 thin slices of lemon
- 2 long slices of cured ham, eg, Cumbrian or Parma ham
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 40g unsalted butter
- a handful of mixed salad leaves
- 20ml red wine
- 1 tsp balsamic vinegar
Method
Place the pigeon breasts on a chopping board and lay a sage leaf and a slice of lemon on top of each one. Wrap a slice of ham around each one to form a parcel and season all over with salt and pepper.
Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a moderate heat, melt the butter and fry the pigeon breasts for 2-3 minutes on each side. Meanwhile, scatter some colourful salad leaves over a large platter ready for serving. Transfer the breasts to a carving board, slice each one into three and arrange on the bed of salad leaves.
Return the pan to a high heat and add the red wine and vinegar. Let it sizzle and deglaze (that’s a cheffy term that means to capture the flavours and juices), then pour over the pigeon and serve.
Warm salad of Roasted Pumpkin and Cobnuts with Pearled Spelt and leeks
Serves 6 as a sharing dish Ingredients
- 600g peeled pumpkin flesh
- 40g pumpkin seeds
- 60g blanched cobnuts or hazelnuts
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 tbsp honey
- 1 tsp chopped thyme
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 200g pearled spelt
- 250g leeks, sliced into 1cm discs
Method
Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Cut the pumpkin flesh into bite-sized cubes and place in a roasting tin with the seeds, cobnuts, oil, honey and thyme. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss everything together so that the pumpkin is evenly coated in the oil and herbs and roast in the oven until tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the pearled spelt in a medium saucepan, add enough cold water to cover and season with a pinch of salt. Simmer over a moderate heat for about 20 minutes until the grain is tender but still has a bit of texture; drain and rinse under the cold tap until cool.
Put a separate pan of water over a moderate heat, add the leeks and simmer for 6 minutes until tender; drain well and keep warm.
To assemble the salad, spoon spelt onto a serving dish. Scatter over the warm leeks and pile the hot roasted pumpkin and nuts on top.