...And to drink?

The French aren’t terribly good at branded wine. Most of the bestselling brands in this country are Australian or Chilean. I’d argue that the appellation contrôlée system, with its emphasis on place, is antithetical to the whole notion of brands. One region in France, however, does have some recognisable names: the Rhône. Most drinkers will be familiar with the cream-and-red labels of Guigal Côtes du Rhône or the red and blue of Jaboulet. And unlike some branded wines, the quality is high. I urge you to try the Rhône producer Jean-Luc Colombo. Best known for his expensive wines from Cornas in the northern Rhône, he also off ers a more aff ordable range.

Côtes du Rhône Les Abeilles Blanc 2013, £9.99, Hatch Mansfield: 01344-871800, www.hatchmansfield.com
Gets better with each sip. Initially tastes clean and lemony but after a while I noticed almonds, flowers, a little honey and spice.

Côtes du Rhône Les Abeilles Rouge 2012, £9.99, Hatch Mansfield: as before
Smells of fresh brambles and there’s some herbiness. It’s dry, medium bodied with lots of black fruit, good acidity and a little leather on the finish. An elegant classic.

Les Pins Couchés Rosé 2013, £9.49, Noble Green Wines: 020-8979 1113, www.noblegreenwines.co.uk
This is probably the last rosé I’ll recommend this year and it’s one of the best. It’s piquant and fresh with notes of herbs and cherries.

Colombo Picpoul de Pinet Les Girelles 2013, £9.99, Hennings Wine Merchants: 01798- 872485, www.henningswine.co.uk
A full-bodied Picpoul. It smells intensely of lemons and has a nettle-like quality that reminds me of Sauvignon Blanc.