Off The Beaten Track

Discover a host of delights off the beaten track with a weekend in France’s Loir valley
Everyone has heard of the Loire region of France, famed for its chateaux, wines and gorgeous countryside. But did you know there’s a little Loir, too?

This Loir valley – note the spelling – lies between Le Mans, Tours, Laval and Angers, and the Loir river  ows into the larger Loire. It’s full of picturesque villages, great places to eat and interesting things to do and see on a short break away.

The region is easily reached by rail from the UK: Eurostar to Paris, then a fast train to Le Mans, venue of the 24-hour race. I’d recommend hiring a car to get around – no speeding, mind!

Your list of sights to see should begin with the Château du Lude. Time your trip for when the rose gardens are at their best and smell every beautiful bloom. Then take a tour of the elegant house, inhabited by the same family for over 260 years.

Next, head for La Flèche, which has a nice zoo and is also home to the Prytanée National Militaire, a school founded by Henry IV where Descartes once studied.

Allow a couple of hours to wander around the pretty streets looking for souvenirs, and don’t miss tea at the Pâtisserie Guillemard – the macaroons are delicious. Take some home as presents.

Another must-see is the apothecary at the Hôtel-Dieu in Baugé, dating back to the 17th century. On its oak shelves are over 600 ornately decorated pots and jars holding ingredients once used to treat ailments – powdered woodlice, anyone?

If you love gardens, your itinerary should also include the gardens of the Priory of Vauboin in Beaumont-sur- Dême, and do visit the cellars and indulge in some winetasting at the Domaine de la Charrière in La Chartre sur le Loir. I particularly enjoyed the local Jasnières wine.

The town of Le Mans deserves a whole weekend to itself really. There are more magnificent gardens at the Donjon de Ballon, and in the centre there’s a huge market and wonderful medieval buildings. Stroll along the river, see the race track, then pick up some final souvenirs – fragrant soap, jewellery, ceramics, more macaroons – before heading home.

GETTING THERE
Stay at charming Le Clos d’Hauteville in central Le Mans, or move around if you’re staying longer. Other great places to stay include boutique hotel Le Gentleman in La Flèche and 5 Grande Rue, a guest house in Le Lude. For train tickets visit voyagessncf. com, call 0844-848 5848 or go to the Voyages-sncf Travel Centre at 193 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EU. More info: www.vallee-du-loir.com

Contact Wendy at wendy.gomersall@lady.co.uk
Prices are correct at the time of going to press.