Review: Ember Yard

When the ribs are this good, who cares if you get in a mess
A stone's through away from Oxford Street, heading to the Ember Yard on a Thursday evening, I had visions of a crowded, loud restaurant where I wouldn't be able to hear what my friend was saying, let alone get the attention of a waiter.

To my delight, sat in the corner of the restaurant, tucked away but not in a 'we're so busy we are cramming you in' kind of way, we not only had plenty of room but could hear each other speak and had no trouble when trying to catch our waiter's eye.

The décor is so that in the summer you feel like it feels like you could be sitting in some fabulous European restaurant, looking for a bite after a day shopping in a bazaar or on the beach (the food takes inspiration from Spanish and Italian methods of cooking over charcoal). In the winter, the warming copper and twinkling lights would be the perfect welcome.

Part of the Salt Yard Group, who have yet to create a restaurant which is any less than fabulous, my expectations were already high. And luckily I was not disappointed.

Looking at the menu, it's quite clear that I'm in meat eater-heaven. Lamb, beef, chicken, pork, it's hard not to say 'I'll have one of everything.' There is also a fantastic range of fish on the menu including cod, salmon, and squid. And the vegetarians haven't been left out as there is also a fantastic range of dishes available from smoked butternut squash with goats curd to bread bean, smoked ricotta and mint croquettes with wild garlic pesto.

We opted to order several small sharing plates so as to taste as much as possible!

From the fish menu we had the chargrilled squid with Pancetta, peas and chilli and the smoked and slow roasted salmon with baby gem, broad beans, wild garlic and buttermilk velouté.

EmberYard-May16-590-2

From the meat menu: roasted and chargrilled Ibérico pork ribs with quince glaze and celeriac purée, oak smoked beef Bavette with cauliflower puree, chargrilled tropea onions, shallot and jamon, and the lamb skewer with yogurt.
We also had the broad bean smoked ricotta and mint croquettes with wild garlic pesto and the grilled flatbread with honey, thyme and smoked butter.

The stand out dish for myself (and I'm pretty sure I speak for my guest) was the pork ribs. Just wow. Normally I never order ribs as they can be a bit messy and I normally end up with a messy face. But quite frankly, I couldn't have cared less about how much mess I was making with this. Full of flavour, succulent and juicy, you would struggle to find anything wrong with this dish.

The only downside is was it was a 'small plate' the potion size only allowed for one rib each. More could have been ordered but you do run the risk of racking up a sizeable bill quite quickly. Dishes are only £6-£9 (for the small plates) but I can see how it would be easy to order away.

As a bread fiend I'm always going to be chuffed when the bread basket is brought over to the table. The grilled flatbread with honey, thyme and smoked butter was so good we ordered several portions. The honey and butter gave a fantastic sweet but smokey flavour. Incredibly moreish.

To finish (because there is ALWAYS room for dessert) my guest had the grilled pineapple, pineapple sorbet, yoghurt mousse and pistachio and I had the warm chocolate and turrón brownie with cherries and rosemary cream. I'm a sucker for anything chocolate and happily this chocolate offering did not disappoint. I'm assured by my guest that her offering was equally as satisfying.

The attention to detail is brilliant. Standard Salt Yard Group slate plates were obviously all well and present. But my favourite touch sits at the top of the menu where it states the wood being used that evening in their ovens. The wood of choice during our visit was Hazel and Silver Birch. If anything it gives a great excuse (although you really wouldn't need one) to go and visit again – will another wood make the lamb taste any different?!

Whether you fancy a spot of lunch whilst shopping in Oxford Street, or a spot of dinner after work, this little Soho offering really hits the spot.

Ember Yard: www.emberyard.co.uk