Pickles & tins and things
Preserving fruits and vegetables over the centuries has resulted in many techniques and recipes, from pickles, vinegars, relishes, mustards, candied fruit, and pastes, to bottling, liqueurs and cordials.
Preserving food was necessary before refrigeration to make the most of the harvest and keep food for the long winter months. Of course now we have refrigerators but what could be better than reaching into your pantry and grabbing a wonderful jar of fruit or vegetables preserved at the height of their season. So much better than buying out-of-season produce that has probably travelled halfway around the world. We are lucky to have access to so many herbs, spices and flavoured vinegars to make the most interesting and delicious preserves.
If you live in a large city you can shop easily for seasonal produce at farmers’ markets. Or if you have a garden with a vegetable patch or are part of a community garden you could use your own fresh produce too.
Buying local sustainable produce is good for everyone in the community and tastes so much better. But most of all, you will enjoy the experience of preserving, and especially the results to be enjoyed throughout the year.
Pickled & Packed, by Valerie Aikman- Smith, with photography by Erin Kunkel, is published by Ryland Peters & Small, priced £16.99.
Lemon curd is one of the easiest things to make, and can form the base of soufflés, ice-creams, and fi llers for cakes and tarts. The bright citrus gives vibrancy to this tart and enhances the delicious rhubarb and ginger.
Makes 10
Ingredients
For the pastry:
You will need
Method
To make the pastry, place the flour, butter, and salt in a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and combine. With the motor running, add the iced water and process until the pastry comes together. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead into a disc. Cover with cling film and keep in the fridge for 30 mins.
Preheat the oven to 350F/180C/gas 4.
After the pastry has rested in the fridge for 30 mins, roll it out onto a lightly floured surface into a large circle. Cut it into circles big enough to line the tart pans. Press the pastry circles into the pans, trim the edges and prick the bases with a fork. Cover with cling film and chill for another 30 mins.
To make the lemon curd, place the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and juice in a heatproof bowl set over a pan one-third filled with water. Bring to a boil over medium to high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Whisk for about 8 mins until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has thickened. Add the cubes of butter one at a time and whisk until smooth, then remove from the heat. Set aside to cool.
Remove the tartlets from the fridge, line with baking parchment, and top with baking beans. Bake in the oven for 5 mins, then remove the paper and weights. Return to the oven and bake for a further 8-10 mins, until golden. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.
To assemble, fill the tartlet shells with lemon curd, then top with a generous teaspoon of Rhubarb & Ginger. Sprinkle with edible flowers and serve. Cook’s note Leftover lemon curd keeps in the fridge for 10 days. It is delicious spread on toast for breakfast.
Makes 950ml
Ingredients
Method
Prepare the rhubarb. Trim the ends and cut the stalks into 2.5cm pieces. In a non-reactive pan over medium to high heat, dissolve the sugar and honey in 475ml water.
Add the rhubarb and ginger and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and continue to cook for a further 5 mins.
Pour the rhubarb into warm, sterilised glass jars and tap the jars on the counter top to get rid of air pockets.
Wipe the jars clean and screw on the lids. Seal jars for 10 mins following Water Bath Method or 20 mins following Oven Method (see right). Once sealed, store unopened in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months.
PICKLED GREEN TOMATO PANZANELLA
Panzanella is the perfect answer for using up day-old bread. It just gets better as it sits and soaks up all the vinegars and pickled brine. Make it for supper or outdoor lunches – it’s also great as a picnic food.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
Method
Preheat a grill pan over mediumhigh heat. Begin by preparing the croutons. Brush the sliced bread with olive oil and cook in the hot pan until golden and slightly charred. When toasted, set aside to cool, then rub with the garlic cloves. Roughly chop the toast into 2.5cm croutons.
Put the Chive Blossom Vinegar and olive oil in a large bowl and whisk together. Add the minced garlic and season with salt and pepper. Add the croutons, cherry tomatoes, Pickled Green Tomatoes, basil, onion, and capers, and mix together. Cover and set aside for at least 1 hour before serving.
Spoon the Panzanella onto a serving dish. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Cook’s note You can also add fresh mozzarella and soft green herbs, such as fl at-leaf parsley, to the Panzanella.
Makes 950ml
Ingredients
Method
Place the rinsed chive blossom in a large sterilised glass jar.
Put the vinegar in a nonreactive pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour over the blossoms, cool, and cover.
Place in cool, dark place or a fridge for 5 days to 1 month. Strain the vinegar through muslin and decant into sterilised bottles. Store in the fridge for up to 12 months.
SPRINGTIME PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES
Makes 1.8 litres
Ingredients
700ml apple cider vinegar
150g demerara sugar
1½ tsp mustard seeds
1½ tsp green peppercorns
4 large green tomatoes, quartered or sliced
2 garlic stalks, cut in half lengthwise
still-warm sterilised glass jars with airtight lids
Method
Put the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds and green peppercorns in a non-reactive pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn down the heat and stir for 8-10 mins until the sugar dissolves.
Pack the tomatoes and garlic into warm, sterilised, sizeappropriate glass jars, leaving a 1cm space at the top. Pour over the hot vinegar mixture and carefully tap the jars on the counter to get rid of any air pockets. Wipe the jars clean and screw on the lids. Seal the jars for 20 mins following the Oven Method or 10 mins following the Water Bath Method (see right). Once sealed, store unopened in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Cook’s note To quick seal, screw on the lids and turn the jars upside down to cool completely, then store in the fridge for up to 2 months.
Sealing filled jars In order to store your preserves at room temperature you must first seal the jars to make them airtight. There are two ways to do this at home. They’re both excellent and safe ways to seal your bounty but the key is to maintain a fixed temperature, which is easiest to control following the Water Bath Method. I use the Oven Method when I’m doing large amounts and the Water Bath Method for smaller batches. If the seal doesn’t work following either method you can repeat the process, or store in the fridge.
Cook’s note Preserving and canning at home carries some risks. The book’s publisher cannot accept any liability for the consequence from the use thereof or the information contained within these recipes. Please consult an up-to-date government source on food safety for further details.
Pack the fruit or vegetables into sterilised jars leaving space at the top according to the recipe. Screw the lids on, wipe the jars clean and, using jar tongs, place them in the water bath. Cover with a lid and once the water has come back to a boil, seal for the specified time.
Remove the jars from the water bath using jar tongs and transfer to a cooling rack. Leave undisturbed until they have cooled completely – you will hear a pinging sound as each lid seals. Check to make sure that the centre of the lid is concaved. Label and store.
Pack the fruit or vegetables into sterilised jars leaving space at the top according to the recipe. Screw the lids on, wipe the jars clean and, using jar tongs, place them in an ovenproof baking dish. Seal in the preheated oven for the specified time.
Remove the dish from the oven and, using jar tongs, transfer the jars to a cooling rack. Leave undisturbed until they have cooled – you’ll hear a pinging sound as each lid seals. Make sure that the centre of the lid is concaved. Label and store.
Preserving food was necessary before refrigeration to make the most of the harvest and keep food for the long winter months. Of course now we have refrigerators but what could be better than reaching into your pantry and grabbing a wonderful jar of fruit or vegetables preserved at the height of their season. So much better than buying out-of-season produce that has probably travelled halfway around the world. We are lucky to have access to so many herbs, spices and flavoured vinegars to make the most interesting and delicious preserves.
If you live in a large city you can shop easily for seasonal produce at farmers’ markets. Or if you have a garden with a vegetable patch or are part of a community garden you could use your own fresh produce too.
Buying local sustainable produce is good for everyone in the community and tastes so much better. But most of all, you will enjoy the experience of preserving, and especially the results to be enjoyed throughout the year.
Pickled & Packed, by Valerie Aikman- Smith, with photography by Erin Kunkel, is published by Ryland Peters & Small, priced £16.99.
LEMON CURD TARTLETS WITH RHUBARB & GINGER
Lemon curd is one of the easiest things to make, and can form the base of soufflés, ice-creams, and fi llers for cakes and tarts. The bright citrus gives vibrancy to this tart and enhances the delicious rhubarb and ginger.
Makes 10
Ingredients
For the pastry:
- 250g plain fl our
- 175g cold unsalted butter, cubed
- pinch of sea salt
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 5 tbsp iced water
- 5 eggs
- 150g fine white sugar
- grated zest and juice of 3 large lemons or 125ml lemon juice
- 175g unsalted butter, cubed and room temperature
- Rhubarb & Ginger (see below)
- edible flowers
You will need
- a food processor
- 10 x 7.5cm tartlet pans, greased and floured
- baking parchment
- baking beans
Method
To make the pastry, place the flour, butter, and salt in a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and combine. With the motor running, add the iced water and process until the pastry comes together. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead into a disc. Cover with cling film and keep in the fridge for 30 mins.
Preheat the oven to 350F/180C/gas 4.
After the pastry has rested in the fridge for 30 mins, roll it out onto a lightly floured surface into a large circle. Cut it into circles big enough to line the tart pans. Press the pastry circles into the pans, trim the edges and prick the bases with a fork. Cover with cling film and chill for another 30 mins.
To make the lemon curd, place the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and juice in a heatproof bowl set over a pan one-third filled with water. Bring to a boil over medium to high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Whisk for about 8 mins until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has thickened. Add the cubes of butter one at a time and whisk until smooth, then remove from the heat. Set aside to cool.
Remove the tartlets from the fridge, line with baking parchment, and top with baking beans. Bake in the oven for 5 mins, then remove the paper and weights. Return to the oven and bake for a further 8-10 mins, until golden. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.
To assemble, fill the tartlet shells with lemon curd, then top with a generous teaspoon of Rhubarb & Ginger. Sprinkle with edible flowers and serve. Cook’s note Leftover lemon curd keeps in the fridge for 10 days. It is delicious spread on toast for breakfast.
RHUBARB & GINGER
Rhubarb is one of the best flavours in the world, but those tough, sour stalks need some love before bottling them. It only takes a few minutes to cook them in a sugar and ginger water, and they are ready to use.Makes 950ml
Ingredients
- 675g chopped fresh rhubarb
- 150g white sugar
- 170g honey
- 2 tbsp finely chopped crystallised ginger
- still-warm sterilised glass jars with airtight lids
Method
Prepare the rhubarb. Trim the ends and cut the stalks into 2.5cm pieces. In a non-reactive pan over medium to high heat, dissolve the sugar and honey in 475ml water.
Add the rhubarb and ginger and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and continue to cook for a further 5 mins.
Pour the rhubarb into warm, sterilised glass jars and tap the jars on the counter top to get rid of air pockets.
Wipe the jars clean and screw on the lids. Seal jars for 10 mins following Water Bath Method or 20 mins following Oven Method (see right). Once sealed, store unopened in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months.
PICKLED GREEN TOMATO PANZANELLA
Panzanella is the perfect answer for using up day-old bread. It just gets better as it sits and soaks up all the vinegars and pickled brine. Make it for supper or outdoor lunches – it’s also great as a picnic food. Serves 4-6
Ingredients
- 60ml Chive Blossom Vinegar (see below)
- 60ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for croutons and to serve
- 1 garlic clove, fi nely minced
- sea salt and cracked black pepper, plus extra to serve
- 250g cherry tomatoes, halved
- 100g Springtime Pickled Green Tomatoes (see right)
- 15g basil leaves, roughly torn
- 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp capers For the croutons
- 6 thick slices ciabatta bread
- 2 garlic cloves, to rub
Method
Preheat a grill pan over mediumhigh heat. Begin by preparing the croutons. Brush the sliced bread with olive oil and cook in the hot pan until golden and slightly charred. When toasted, set aside to cool, then rub with the garlic cloves. Roughly chop the toast into 2.5cm croutons.
Put the Chive Blossom Vinegar and olive oil in a large bowl and whisk together. Add the minced garlic and season with salt and pepper. Add the croutons, cherry tomatoes, Pickled Green Tomatoes, basil, onion, and capers, and mix together. Cover and set aside for at least 1 hour before serving.
Spoon the Panzanella onto a serving dish. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Cook’s note You can also add fresh mozzarella and soft green herbs, such as fl at-leaf parsley, to the Panzanella.
CHIVE BLOSSOM VINEGAR
Chives were among one of the first herbs that I grew as a child in my patch of the family garden. The blossoms are so pretty, especially torn up and sprinkled over salads. Even better, they make a vibrant pink vinegar that adds gusto to any dish.Makes 950ml
Ingredients
- A bunch of chive blossom, rinsed
- 950ml rice wine vinegar
- A large sterilised glass jar and sterilised bottles with airtight lids
Method
Place the rinsed chive blossom in a large sterilised glass jar.
Put the vinegar in a nonreactive pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour over the blossoms, cool, and cover.
Place in cool, dark place or a fridge for 5 days to 1 month. Strain the vinegar through muslin and decant into sterilised bottles. Store in the fridge for up to 12 months.
SPRINGTIME PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES
Makes 1.8 litres
Ingredients
700ml apple cider vinegar
150g demerara sugar
1½ tsp mustard seeds
1½ tsp green peppercorns
4 large green tomatoes, quartered or sliced
2 garlic stalks, cut in half lengthwise
still-warm sterilised glass jars with airtight lids
Method
Put the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds and green peppercorns in a non-reactive pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn down the heat and stir for 8-10 mins until the sugar dissolves.
Pack the tomatoes and garlic into warm, sterilised, sizeappropriate glass jars, leaving a 1cm space at the top. Pour over the hot vinegar mixture and carefully tap the jars on the counter to get rid of any air pockets. Wipe the jars clean and screw on the lids. Seal the jars for 20 mins following the Oven Method or 10 mins following the Water Bath Method (see right). Once sealed, store unopened in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
Cook’s note To quick seal, screw on the lids and turn the jars upside down to cool completely, then store in the fridge for up to 2 months.
Sealing filled jars In order to store your preserves at room temperature you must first seal the jars to make them airtight. There are two ways to do this at home. They’re both excellent and safe ways to seal your bounty but the key is to maintain a fixed temperature, which is easiest to control following the Water Bath Method. I use the Oven Method when I’m doing large amounts and the Water Bath Method for smaller batches. If the seal doesn’t work following either method you can repeat the process, or store in the fridge.
Cook’s note Preserving and canning at home carries some risks. The book’s publisher cannot accept any liability for the consequence from the use thereof or the information contained within these recipes. Please consult an up-to-date government source on food safety for further details.
WATER-BATH METHOD
Fill a canning kettle or large pot fitted with a metal rack on the bottom, with enough water to cover the height of the jars by 5cm and bring to a boil.Pack the fruit or vegetables into sterilised jars leaving space at the top according to the recipe. Screw the lids on, wipe the jars clean and, using jar tongs, place them in the water bath. Cover with a lid and once the water has come back to a boil, seal for the specified time.
Remove the jars from the water bath using jar tongs and transfer to a cooling rack. Leave undisturbed until they have cooled completely – you will hear a pinging sound as each lid seals. Check to make sure that the centre of the lid is concaved. Label and store.
OVEN METHOD
Heat the oven to 250F/120C/ gas ½.Pack the fruit or vegetables into sterilised jars leaving space at the top according to the recipe. Screw the lids on, wipe the jars clean and, using jar tongs, place them in an ovenproof baking dish. Seal in the preheated oven for the specified time.
Remove the dish from the oven and, using jar tongs, transfer the jars to a cooling rack. Leave undisturbed until they have cooled – you’ll hear a pinging sound as each lid seals. Make sure that the centre of the lid is concaved. Label and store.