Review: Bones

A meaty meal to remember
Dem bones dem bones dem dryyyyyy bones.

Thanks to The Delta Rhythm Boys, that word always make we want to break out into song. Dry bones couldn’t be further from what we ate at Bones restaurant, however. Sitting sleeky in the middle of Shoreditch, this wood-pannelling-and-leather eatery is said to be a carnivore’s dream. Its menu centres around hearty meat dishes (in case you hadn’t guessed) which can be shared or not along with creative and interesting sides. It’s not quite a small plate place, but neither does it follow a strict starter-main-dessert format. Perhaps it’s like the sit-down version of a barbeque…Graze on meat and salad in no particular order until you’re stuffed.

That’s exactly what we did, anyway. Starting with the pig’s ears purely out of curiosity, we were presented with a little dish of deep fried strips accompanied a by thick tartare sauce. Surprisingly delectable, and not at all ear-like. The pigeon breast on my subsequent salad was tender and gamey, while my friend (the ever-hungry City Boy) tucked into burrata which oozed creamy goodness. So far, so tasty. For the main, I decided to wholeheartedly embrace the fleshy vibe by ordering a whopping great steak. It was – and I don’t say this lightly – almost perfect. Tender with the slightest bit of pan-fried crunch, it was flavoursome to the point of needing no condiments. City Boy’s lamb was equally juicy, and he couldn’t stop raving about the herb crust. When we managed to tear our cutlery away from the meat, we discovered that the colourful sautéed squid and potato salad was delicious, as was the roasted aubergine with feta and pomegranate.

The cocktail menu is not enormous here, but they do have an excellent selection or organic wines. We tried the Ciù Ciù Piceno Bacchus and would highly recommend it, being the rare red wine which is velvety without being heavy.

The pudding offering is also select, but there are some good’uns to be indulged in. The seasonal fruit crumble was apple and damson plum when we visited, and was cleverly deconstructed with the oat topping and fruit laying side-by-side. Vanilla ice cream was the proverbial cherry on top. The rich chocolate cake, however, was the only thing not to cut the proverbial mustard. It really needed to be a little more dense and rich (but City Boy finished it anyway).

There is lots more to tempt on the menu, and it strikes me that this is the sort of place to incite repeated visits. The food is belly-filling, the staff smiley and the décor cosy. Most carnivores have to hunt for them food…Happily we can just go to Bones.

www.ieatbones.com