…AND TO DRINK?
For years I’ve been writing the word ‘modern’ in my tasting notes. By modern I meant a wine that has lots of oak, alcohol, overripe fruit and smooth tannins. I didn’t usually mean it as a compliment. Recently, however, I’ve realised that because this style was considered modern in 1996, it isn’t modern any more. ‘Modern’ now means the opposite. Nothing bears this out more than the changing fashion for Syrah. Once it was made internationally in the mould of beefy Australian Shiraz, now the model is the Northern Rhône at its most fragrant. From California to South Africa, elegant Syrahs are conquering the world, often with a distinctive orangey tang to them. Here are a few to try.
Les Tannes Syrah Paul Mas 2012, £7.95: www.jeroboams.co.uk
Hard to believe that this is from the baking South of France, it’s so light, poised and refreshing. One could almost drink it chilled.
Mullineux Family Wines Syrah 2011, £18.95: www.slurp.co.uk
These wines from South Africa have acquired cult status. It smells smoky with a bit of orange. It’s super-dry, light-bodied and defi antly in the new modern style.
Craggy Range Syrah Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2010, £18.95: www.hailshamcellars.com
I think Syrah might be the grape that New Zealand does best. This is peppery and fi rm with some lovely perfume.
Wakefield Shiraz Jaraman 2010, £20.99: www.ozwines.co.uk
There’s quite a bit of spicy oak and coff ee. In the mouth, though, there’s zingy fruit with a whisper of creamy oak at the end. The next day the oak is barely there, so it’s worth decanting if you want it to taste up-to-date.
Les Tannes Syrah Paul Mas 2012, £7.95: www.jeroboams.co.uk
Hard to believe that this is from the baking South of France, it’s so light, poised and refreshing. One could almost drink it chilled.
Mullineux Family Wines Syrah 2011, £18.95: www.slurp.co.uk
These wines from South Africa have acquired cult status. It smells smoky with a bit of orange. It’s super-dry, light-bodied and defi antly in the new modern style.
Craggy Range Syrah Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2010, £18.95: www.hailshamcellars.com
I think Syrah might be the grape that New Zealand does best. This is peppery and fi rm with some lovely perfume.
Wakefield Shiraz Jaraman 2010, £20.99: www.ozwines.co.uk
There’s quite a bit of spicy oak and coff ee. In the mouth, though, there’s zingy fruit with a whisper of creamy oak at the end. The next day the oak is barely there, so it’s worth decanting if you want it to taste up-to-date.