The Globe Trotter: 22 February
A trip to Machu Picchu, the breathtaking mountaintop ancient city ruins in Peru, had long been on my must-see list. But as a lady of a certain age, I had neither the inclination nor physical ability to even think about taking the tough Inca Trail to the site, as most people seem to do. Far too much like hard work.
Anyway, it can’t possibly be as amazing as it looks in all those familiar photographs we see in travel brochures, I consoled myself, deciding I’d probably never get there.
But guess what? You can get to Machu Picchu the easy way – by train and by staying in a hotel that is literally only a few steps from the entrance to this unforgettable site.
The luxurious Hiram Bingham train is named after the explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu in 1911. I boarded it for the three-and-a-bithour journey from just outside Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, as close as you can get to the site by rail.
The train comprises two elegant dining carriages where a delicious brunch is served en route, and there’s a bar with a small observation deck – the place to take great pictures as you head through the Sacred Valley. It’s a very civilised way to travel.
From Aguas Calientes, it’s a halfhour windy drive up to our hotel, Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. With comfy rooms and a nice bar and restaurant, it also has an unexpected treat – jewel-coloured hummingbirds flitting around feeders in the garden. More to the point, the hotel is about a minute’s walk, if that, to the entrance to Machu Picchu.
The famous ruins of an ancient Inca city, with more than 200 buildings of chiselled stone, it is perched 2,380 metres up on a saddle of land between two mountain peaks.
To tell the truth, it’s still a bit of an effort to get into the heart of the city, not helped by the thin air, and even tougher to get to the best viewpoint where everyone takes that classic ‘me at Machu Picchu’ shot. But honestly, it is so worth the effort; it is one of the most spectacular sights I’ve ever seen.
Some scholars believe Machu Picchu was a kind of Inca university, rather than a citadel, and was home to 1,000 people. Now, 2,000 visitors arrive every day.
But book yourself into Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge and you can be at the gate for the 6am opening time. This means you have around 30 minutes to contemplate the sheer wonder of it all before the hordes arrive. It’s even more awesome in the peace and quiet.
The Hiram Bingham train
Maccu Picchu is worth the long flight to Peru, but there’s plenty more to see in this marvellous South American country. Lima, the capital and largest city, has grand Spanish colonial architecture – cathedrals and churches, big squares, mansions and public buildings. Cuzco is similarly handsome, with a spectacular valley setting, too.
Finally, end your trip to Peru with a few days in the stunning Sacred Valley of the Incas at the heavenly Hotel Rio Sagrado. The hotel, 3km from the town called Urubamba, has gorgeous riverside gardens, a very good restaurant and lovely spa. I wish I had booked a week there.
Ten-days/seven-nights in Peru costs from £2,895 per person, including return flights from Heathrow, guided tour of Machu Picchu and Vistadome train tickets; Hiram Bingham train, from £315 per person return. Cox & Kings: 0845-154 8941, www.coxandkings.co.uk and www.peru.travel
in other news…
Willow weave Learn how to make beautiful objects for your home or garden on a two-night willow weaving break, led by expert Carol Barkwell, at The Scarlet Hotel, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, 21 to 23 April. The break, from £270 per person, also includes supper with Carol and a seafood dinner. 01637-861800, www.scarlethotel.co.uk
Dallas dinner Dallas fans can now enjoy a Sunset Cocktail on JR Ewing’s balcony, a mansion tour and a candlelit dinner at the ‘real’ Southfork Ranch in Parker, Texas. The Ewing Sunset Dinner Package for two, with a ride in a limousine, costs from $1,500 (approximately £950). 001 972 442 7800, www.southfork.com
Chelsea cruise Voyages of Discovery’s 12-day British Isles And The Chelsea Flower Show cruise in partnership with the RHS, from £1,459 per person and departing 14 May, includes a visit to this spectacular event for the greenfingered. 0844-488 0872, www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk
Anyway, it can’t possibly be as amazing as it looks in all those familiar photographs we see in travel brochures, I consoled myself, deciding I’d probably never get there.
But guess what? You can get to Machu Picchu the easy way – by train and by staying in a hotel that is literally only a few steps from the entrance to this unforgettable site.
The luxurious Hiram Bingham train is named after the explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu in 1911. I boarded it for the three-and-a-bithour journey from just outside Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, as close as you can get to the site by rail.
The train comprises two elegant dining carriages where a delicious brunch is served en route, and there’s a bar with a small observation deck – the place to take great pictures as you head through the Sacred Valley. It’s a very civilised way to travel.
From Aguas Calientes, it’s a halfhour windy drive up to our hotel, Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. With comfy rooms and a nice bar and restaurant, it also has an unexpected treat – jewel-coloured hummingbirds flitting around feeders in the garden. More to the point, the hotel is about a minute’s walk, if that, to the entrance to Machu Picchu.
The famous ruins of an ancient Inca city, with more than 200 buildings of chiselled stone, it is perched 2,380 metres up on a saddle of land between two mountain peaks.
To tell the truth, it’s still a bit of an effort to get into the heart of the city, not helped by the thin air, and even tougher to get to the best viewpoint where everyone takes that classic ‘me at Machu Picchu’ shot. But honestly, it is so worth the effort; it is one of the most spectacular sights I’ve ever seen.
Some scholars believe Machu Picchu was a kind of Inca university, rather than a citadel, and was home to 1,000 people. Now, 2,000 visitors arrive every day.
But book yourself into Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge and you can be at the gate for the 6am opening time. This means you have around 30 minutes to contemplate the sheer wonder of it all before the hordes arrive. It’s even more awesome in the peace and quiet.
The Hiram Bingham trainMaccu Picchu is worth the long flight to Peru, but there’s plenty more to see in this marvellous South American country. Lima, the capital and largest city, has grand Spanish colonial architecture – cathedrals and churches, big squares, mansions and public buildings. Cuzco is similarly handsome, with a spectacular valley setting, too.
Finally, end your trip to Peru with a few days in the stunning Sacred Valley of the Incas at the heavenly Hotel Rio Sagrado. The hotel, 3km from the town called Urubamba, has gorgeous riverside gardens, a very good restaurant and lovely spa. I wish I had booked a week there.
Ten-days/seven-nights in Peru costs from £2,895 per person, including return flights from Heathrow, guided tour of Machu Picchu and Vistadome train tickets; Hiram Bingham train, from £315 per person return. Cox & Kings: 0845-154 8941, www.coxandkings.co.uk and www.peru.travel
in other news…
Willow weave Learn how to make beautiful objects for your home or garden on a two-night willow weaving break, led by expert Carol Barkwell, at The Scarlet Hotel, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, 21 to 23 April. The break, from £270 per person, also includes supper with Carol and a seafood dinner. 01637-861800, www.scarlethotel.co.uk
Dallas dinner Dallas fans can now enjoy a Sunset Cocktail on JR Ewing’s balcony, a mansion tour and a candlelit dinner at the ‘real’ Southfork Ranch in Parker, Texas. The Ewing Sunset Dinner Package for two, with a ride in a limousine, costs from $1,500 (approximately £950). 001 972 442 7800, www.southfork.com
Chelsea cruise Voyages of Discovery’s 12-day British Isles And The Chelsea Flower Show cruise in partnership with the RHS, from £1,459 per person and departing 14 May, includes a visit to this spectacular event for the greenfingered. 0844-488 0872, www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk