Darcy was here...

Chatsworth Estate doubled as Mr Darcy's Pemberley - but the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire's hotels also offer a taste of the high life
My first time here, I had volunteered to be hunted by bloodhounds. It was a favour for a friend who runs one of the country’s finest bloodhound packs, Four Shires Bloodhounds, and involved running 15 miles across soggy Derbyshire countryside while being pursued by 37 hounds and a field of 60 or so riders. It was exhausting, but exhilarating – and I just escaped the hounds, earning a warm letter of congratulations from the Duchess of Devonshire for my efforts.

Of course, Chatsworth, historic seat of the dukes of Devonshire, is magnificent, whether you visit it at full tilt at the head of a pack of baying hounds, or at a rather more sedate pace with nothing more taxing than a cream tea and a trip to the farm shop on your schedule. As well as its magnificent art collection (a must for lovers of the Old Masters), the house, which has been home to 16 generations of the Cavendish family, boasts 1,000 acres of beautiful parkland, including 105 acres of immaculate gardens. No wonder it doubled as Mr Darcy’s Pemberley in the 2005 film of Pride And Prejudice.

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But it’s about more than just this extraordinary pile and its grounds: the Devonshires also run an outstanding collection of hotels, inns and restaurants, set within their 35,000 acre Derbyshire and 30,000 acre Yorkshire estates.

The closest to Chatsworth itself is The Devonshire Arms in the picturepostcard village of Beeley. It is the type of place the word ‘gastropub’ was invented for, a traditional Derbyshire inn given fresh purpose with an award-winning menu, designer decor (overseen by the duchess herself) and 14 beautiful bedrooms, some of which welcome dogs. It’s both colourful and cosy – and there’s a brasserie as well as the opportunity to eat in the bar (I’d recommend the latter).

At the other end of the Devonshire’s domain is Bolton Abbey, near Skipton in the Yorkshire Dales. Here, you can explore the eerie ruined abbey, before walking along the wooded River Wharfe to the dramatic Strid, where the cascade tumbles through a narrow stone gorge (this is no place for a swim). The estate runs the rather opulent Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel, which has 40 sumptuous but welcoming rooms, a spa and the prized Burlington restaurant. The setting is grand but pleasantly informal, too. Dogs are welcome and will love curling up in front of the roaring log fires.

DuchessDevonshire-02-590Left: The Devonshire Arms, Country House Hotel. Right: The Devonshire Arms in Beeley

You never know. Next time, perhaps I’ll bring the bloodhounds. 

For reservations and more information about Devonshire Hotels & Restaurants: 01756-718111, www.devonshirehotels.co.uk

Chatsworth: 01246-565300, www.chatsworth.org

Bolton Abbey: 01756-718000, www.boltonabbey.com