Classic City Break
Florence is very probably the most beautiful city in the world. There are so many sights for sore eyes and I never tire of wandering around Bella Firenze – the delightful Boboli Gardens; picturesque Ponte Vecchio across the River Arno; the wonderful Uffizi Gallery and the elegant Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore. Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia is one of my very favourite pieces of art.
But there are other attractions to please different senses. Now is the perfect time to go truffl e-hunting, for example…
The five-star Orient-Express Villa San Michele, on a hillside in Fiesole, with spectacular views over the city, offers the experience to its guests, and what fun it is.
Somewhere near San Miniato, a small settlement between Florence and Pisa, we met up with Giampiero Montanelli, psychologist – and expert truffle hunter. It is not he who sniffs out the delicacy, of course, but his loyal, clever and specially trained doggie, Macchia. As soon as she’s unclipped from her lead, she’s off, charging through the undergrowth, snout to the ground, snuffling out truffles.
This so-called ‘gem of the earth’ is a culinary wonder, just a few slivers of which can turn an ordinary dish such as scrambled eggs into a gourmet feast.
Only a truffle dog devoted to his or her master – or mistress – can be persuaded not to wolf them down.
Villa San Michele Cookery School
‘Truffle-hunting can be done all year, except in May,’ Giampiero explained, as we watched Macchia zooming around. ‘From September to December we can find the tartufo bianco (white truffle), the most valued type; from January to April, tartufo bianchetto or marzuolo (March truffle or lesser white truffle) and last but not least, the tartufo scorzone (black summer truffle) in April and June.’
Exploring this woodland, in a secret location, is a lovely way to spend a few hours. Macchia, who seemed to be having the time of her life, found us a scrap of truffl e and wagged her tail vigorously as we patted and petted her and told her what a very good girl she was.
We learned what to do with truffles during a lesson in the Cookery School back at our hotel. Top class Villa San Michele is not cheap, but is exceptional, with an excellent restaurant, The Loggia, which offers a delicious tasting menu that features yummy truffl es. It has a marvellous cookery school, too.
During our morning lesson, Executive Chef Attilio di Fabrizio showed us how to prepare pasta in the Tuscan tradition, with a simple truffle sauce. There can be few things more satisfying than producing your own tagliatelle, especially when you’re a bad cook, like me. I am excellent, however, at eating it, especially with a nice glass or three of Chianti…
Citalia offers a three-night break at the Villa San Michele from £959 per person, including breakfast and fl ights. Tasting menu dedicated entirely to the white truffle, from £137.50 per person. A half day of truffle-hunting costs from £60 per person: 0844-415 1956, www.citalia.com
But there are other attractions to please different senses. Now is the perfect time to go truffl e-hunting, for example…
The five-star Orient-Express Villa San Michele, on a hillside in Fiesole, with spectacular views over the city, offers the experience to its guests, and what fun it is.
Somewhere near San Miniato, a small settlement between Florence and Pisa, we met up with Giampiero Montanelli, psychologist – and expert truffle hunter. It is not he who sniffs out the delicacy, of course, but his loyal, clever and specially trained doggie, Macchia. As soon as she’s unclipped from her lead, she’s off, charging through the undergrowth, snout to the ground, snuffling out truffles.
This so-called ‘gem of the earth’ is a culinary wonder, just a few slivers of which can turn an ordinary dish such as scrambled eggs into a gourmet feast.
Only a truffle dog devoted to his or her master – or mistress – can be persuaded not to wolf them down.
Villa San Michele Cookery School‘Truffle-hunting can be done all year, except in May,’ Giampiero explained, as we watched Macchia zooming around. ‘From September to December we can find the tartufo bianco (white truffle), the most valued type; from January to April, tartufo bianchetto or marzuolo (March truffle or lesser white truffle) and last but not least, the tartufo scorzone (black summer truffle) in April and June.’
Exploring this woodland, in a secret location, is a lovely way to spend a few hours. Macchia, who seemed to be having the time of her life, found us a scrap of truffl e and wagged her tail vigorously as we patted and petted her and told her what a very good girl she was.
We learned what to do with truffles during a lesson in the Cookery School back at our hotel. Top class Villa San Michele is not cheap, but is exceptional, with an excellent restaurant, The Loggia, which offers a delicious tasting menu that features yummy truffl es. It has a marvellous cookery school, too.
During our morning lesson, Executive Chef Attilio di Fabrizio showed us how to prepare pasta in the Tuscan tradition, with a simple truffle sauce. There can be few things more satisfying than producing your own tagliatelle, especially when you’re a bad cook, like me. I am excellent, however, at eating it, especially with a nice glass or three of Chianti…
GETTING THERE
Citalia offers a three-night break at the Villa San Michele from £959 per person, including breakfast and fl ights. Tasting menu dedicated entirely to the white truffle, from £137.50 per person. A half day of truffle-hunting costs from £60 per person: 0844-415 1956, www.citalia.com
IN OTHER NEWS...
- Christmas spirit Llandeilo Festival of Senses in Carmarthenshire, Wales, kicks off on 23 November, offering lots of lovely Christmassy events – special shops, food tastings, music, etc – to get you in the mood. www.llandeilochristmasfestivalofsenses.co.uk
- Water into wine Order a bottle of mineral water with your two-course meal at Napa, the restaurant at the four-star Chiswick Moran Hotel in west London, and you’ll get a bottle of wine instead (one only). The imaginative ‘water-into-wine’ promotion runs until the end of the year. Rooms from £90. 020-8996 5200, www.chiswickmoranhotel.com
- Gentle walks Ramblers Worldwide Holidays has launched Adagio, leisurely walking and sightseeing holidays in Europe, with specialists to accompany you throughout the holiday. A seven-night break exploring chateaus and vineyards in France’s Loire region, costs from £989 per person, including rail travel, b&b and fi ve dinners. 01707-386700, www.ramblersholidays.co.uk