AN ANGLO-SPANISH AFFAIR
Los Altos de Almuña, a white villa built from scratch in 1989, in the hills of Andalucia, is owned by Hugh and Jane Arbuthnott. Their house overlooks sweeping Spanish hills, the sea and the Rock of Gibraltar in the far distance. The view from the bedroom windows is framed by wisteria and accompanied by the scent of jasmine. It’s wonderfully secluded, with an English garden and a pool.
But this is not a hotel or villa holiday. It’s a family home, and staying here, you’re made to feel part of the family.
Guests can wander pretty much at will – play the piano, make use of the drinks tray. There’s no dress code. We’re encouraged to come down to the living room in pyjamas and slippers for early-morning tea. Bliss.
The Arbuthnotts are at retirement age, but seem to be doing nothing of the sort. They, along with their son and daughter-in-law, Clare, are lively, attentive, fun and kind hosts. They remember if you’re not keen on red meat, fill
your glass without your noticing and generally make you feel thoroughly at home.
Their staff are equally at ease – some have worked with the family for more than 20 years. Cheery Paco, famous
among guests for his superb paella and infectious smile, owns the farm next door. He helped build Almuña and his
charming wife is housekeeper, chef and more. She and Jane welcome guests into their laid-back kitchen to make
Spanish dishes, from slow-roasted pepper and aubergine tapenade, to almond soup and fragrant paella. All the vegetables served here are organic and grown on the extensive patch outside.
Food is undoubtedly a highlight on any holiday here. From a typical cafe breakfast to the more delicate suppers
served at Almuña, each meal is memorable. But the menus are carefully balanced so you never feel over-full. Activity is central to any break at Almuña; the Arbuthnotts can’t keep still. Hughie and Clare are accomplished horse riders and lead groups on anything from scenic wanders locally to tours of Chile. With such lush countryside on their doorstep, it’s no wonder the great outdoors holds such appeal. (The Arbuthnotts also organise painting classes for those who would rather capture, than conquer it.)
We walk from Gaucín to Almuña and ride around the cork forests, fields and olive groves on the nearby Almoraima estate (once owned by the Dukes of Medinaceli). We even trek to Ronda from Benaoján, a three-and-a-half hour hike that starts with an uphill stretch above the morningmisted town. Along the way we pass ruined farmhouses, their old threshing circles grassed-over, their fields presided over by an enormous, boisterously friendly dog. It’s hilly, open country, bright with greens at this time of year and sometimes muddy. Halfway in, we are met by Jane and victuals – fruitcake, homemade lemonade and sherry. By the time we reach Ronda, via flat farmland that hums in the sunshine, it’s time for lunch.
This is an Anglo-Spanish affair. A gingham-covered table is neatly set in a parched, spiky olive grove. Rioja, tortilla,
chorizo stew, and cheese with quince are our reward. The knotted trees frame the famous and much-pictured bridge, Puente Nuevo, which used to house a restaurant and now is home to views that expand across the Serranía de Ronda mountains.
This is exactly the type of setting – and wine-laden picnic table – over which I could be convinced to up sticks and
leave everything for Andalucia.
VACATION INFORMATION
From £1,000 per person for seven nights’ stay at Almuña, including all meals, two lunches out at bars/restaurants, wine and all pre-lunch and dinner drinks. Transport throughout the week on excursions and entrance fees as specified, one trip for collection and one for return to and from either Malaga or Gibraltar. The price does not include car hire, air fares, travel insurance and staff gratuities. Contact: 020-7738 2032, www.arbuthnottholidays.com