...And to drink?

This week: Lidl wines
Perhaps the most important rule of buying wine is that if it looks too good to be true then it probably is. If there is a Vacqueyras, for example, for less than £10 a bottle, you’d be better off buying a Côtes du Rhône instead. And yet I often forget this rule and end up disappointed. So I approached Lidl’s new Wine Cellar range with trepidation. Lidl is offering wines from well-known regions in France in limited quantities, so when they’re gone that’s it. I suppose it’s designed to encourage the regulars to trade up but also to entice Waitrose-type shoppers. It does include an £8.99 Vacqueyras which, as expected, isn’t very good. In fact, there are quite a few dull wines that don’t live up to their esteemed appellations but there are also some bargains to be had. Here are some that stood out: all available from www.lidl.co.uk

Côtes de Gascogne Sauvignon Blanc L’Escargot 2013, £4.99
One of the best cheap whites I’ve had in a while. It has some nice Sauvignon Blanc character with its grassy nose, and notes of grapefruit and green peppers. Best of all, it’s not in any way overblown.

Vin de Bourgogne P de Marcilly Mâcon- Villages 2011, £7.49
I loved this wine’s blend of subtle oakiness, fresh lemons and nutty mature notes. It tastes a lot more expensive than it actually is.

Château Marjosse Bordeaux 2012, £8.99
Just the sort of thing that would be served at a posh golf club with the roast beef on Sunday. It’s leafy with supple tannins. Very drinkable.

Chevalier de Lascombes Margaux 2011, £18.99
This was the best of the clarets stocked by Lidl. It combines good ripe blackcurrant fruit with great elegance and perfume and a nice bit of tannic grip: one for the Bordeaux classicist.